Ntafufu.

Our travels to the deepest, darkest parts of South Africa began at 3:45 in the morning on Wednesday the 20th. We were officially on the road by 4:15am. Jimmy, Pippa, and I travelled in the Nissan X-trail. Jackie and Mooks travelled in the Izuzu buckie (truck), leading the way. The air was cold, yet the sky was clear and a beautiful day followed as the sun began to break on the horizon. We moseyed on south through the Drakensberg mountain range and experienced South African townships in their various forms. A few kilometers before Port St. John's, we exited onto a dirt road that led us down to the Ntafufu river. Here we had planned to meet Sollie, the care take of Toucan Tango Cottage and the deliverer of the hidden oasis that would be home for the next days. By the time we had packed everything on the small boat, including ourselves, and ventured down river two kilometers to a dock within clear sight of breaking ocean waves, the sun had begun its decent on this group of weary travelers.

Thursday was our first official day in paradise. The sun shined bright and the air warmed as the noon hour neared. We headed to South rocks to grab our feel for the place and settle into our surroundings. Mooks took a fishing pole to try his hand at fishing before the real games began the following day. Jimmy and I relaxed on the beach, dabbled our feet in the chilly winter waters, and awed at the absolute pure beauty that enveloped our senses.


The next day, Guy, Pippa's son, headed down to spend his birthday weekend with us. We rose early and headed into Port St. John's to pick up a few remaining supplies and then waited at the Seaview store where Guy would leave his car for the next few days. Upon his arrival, we packed up and headed back to camp to enjoy a fresh crayfish lunch. Now the crew was complete and the real fishing adventures were to begin. The guys prepared the fishing rods, we packed up the snake bite kit (refreshments), grabbed the master fisher (Sollie) and headed to Ntafufu beach for an afternoon/evening escapade. As we fumbled our way through the lush tropical forest, on a path well worn, smiles were contagious and happiness inevitable. We approached the dunes and began to see the waves clapping against the shoreline. A wave of breathlessness washed over me and I couldn't help but laugh. Sollies dogs followed us out, playing and running in the dunes. A euphoric air seeped from the over all sight of the happy dogs, the magnificent isolated beach surrounded by majestic hills, and a group of people over joyed by each others company. Jimmy, Guy, Mooks, Jackie, and Sol prepared their bait and went straight to fishing from the surf. I laid out my beach towel and basked in the beauty of the moment. At no other point in my life have I experienced nature in this form, surrounded only by people that I know and trust. The feelings intensified as the sun began to set and a barrage of colors swept over the hills. The scene was so stimulating that it almost felt fake. For a split moment, I almost felt like The Truman Show, as if it were all a stage, a theatrical event. That thought quickly passed and I continued to glow in the momentousness of the experience. Darkness quickly arrived. Out in these parts of Africa, dark really is dark. No lights means no lights. No lights means no sight. What a great day it was.

Saturday was Guy's birthday. The Freer tradition of pots and pans occurred followed by a delicious breakfast and present opening. Then, the fishing gear was gathered, snake bite kit prepared, snacks/lunch collected and we headed to the north rocks for a leisurely day of fishing, laying, and overall enjoyment of nature. At the start of the day, the ocean was calm and the sun was warm in contrast to the cool breeze. After lunch, the wind began to pick up and the sun had no warming power any longer. Unfortunately, it became too uncomfortable, so we packed up and headed back.
The next day was much of the same: fishing and lounging. It was Guy's last day and the last day we would experience beautiful weather down at the Ntafufu camp. That afternoon, a thunderstorm rolled in, pitched a tent, and settled down for the next several days. Luckily, we were to leave on Tuesday. We hoped and prayed there would be a break in the rain (which there hadn't been since it started Sunday night) long enough for us to return up river with all of our belongings and head back to Joburg. Tuesday morning started out rain free the first few hours of day break, but as we neared time to load the boat the drizzle reared its ugly face one last time. We said our goodbyes and made a miserable trip upriver, against a current strong and heavy with the rains of the previous days. Although it had been raining on the coast, it had snowed inland causing both routes back to Joburg to be closed. We headed to San Lameer, Pippa and Mooks' friends vacation home, for the night. Jimmy and I missed our flight to Port Elizabeth booked for Wednesday morning and had to quickly rework a new plan. We no longer would get to experience the garden route. With everyone's help, we settled with a flight to Capetown on Friday morning and focused on returning to Joburg in the mean time. Wednesday, we packed up after we woke and hit the road. We returned about 8:30pm last night, very thankful to be back at our home away from home.

Today, we have relaxed and took care of all that needed caring for. Tonight we will have our last dinner with Jax before she heads home to Dubai tomorrow and before we head to Capetown in the morning for the last leg of our South African adventures.